CHITRAKOOT

January 20th, 2025, Monday

My wife was away on a work trip to Delhi, and my close friends were off on their own adventures. With the upcoming Thursday holiday quietly approaching, I found myself wondering—how could I make the most of this time? The answer came suddenly, like a gentle nudge from within: Why not visit Chitrakoot?

No sooner had the thought occurred than I sprang into action—booked a hotel, packed a bag, and set out for the sacred town intimately tied with Lord Ram’s journey. The air carried a strange thrill, as if the very road ahead whispered stories yet untold.

I left on Wednesday afternoon around 2:30 PM and took the Bundelkhand Expressway. By 6:20 PM, I had already reached my hotel—far earlier than I had expected. A quick check-in later, I was back outside the door, ready to immerse myself in this land of legend.

At the reception, I asked the staff about local transport options. I had two choices: an e-rickshaw or an auto-rickshaw. Both were easily available, barely 50 steps from the hotel. Without wasting time, I slung my camera across my shoulder and stepped out.

Not far down the road, I met Rohit—an auto driver with an infectious smile and a playful charm. My first destination was Ram Ghat, where the famed Ganga Aarti takes place on the banks of the Mandakini River from 6 to 7 PM.

RAMGHAT

RAM GHAT – A River of Light

Just five minutes away, Ram Ghat unfolded like a vision from a dream. Rohit drove swiftly, and before parting, he handed me his number—my ride back was now secured.

But the moment I stepped onto the ghat, time seemed to halt.

I stood utterly spellbound. The entire expanse of the Mandakini River was dotted with vibrantly colored boats, gently rocking under the night sky. Draped in glimmering lights, each boat looked like a floating star, a flicker of devotion on the water’s surface.

I say this without hesitation—never in my life had I witnessed a sight so magical. That very moment alone felt like the fulfillment of my entire journey to Chitrakoot.

Drawn in by the serenity, I climbed onto a boat headed towards the heart of the aarti. Sitting amidst fellow pilgrims, I watched the river shimmer in gold and orange, as chants and bells filled the air. The flame of the aarti danced not just on the river, but within me.

After the ceremony, the boatman took us further along the river, sharing stories of the ghats and temples lining the shore. His voice, soft and reverent, wove the fabric of myth and memory together. It felt less like a ride, more like being gently carried through time.

Even after disembarking, I couldn’t bring myself to leave. I lingered by the ghat, letting the peace settle into my bones. Eventually, I spotted a small tea stall and ordered a strong cup of ginger chai. The warmth of the tea met the stillness of my soul.

Refreshed, I called Rohit and he was there in no time to pick me up. As we drove, I asked him, “Rohit bhai, where should one go for a good meal in Chitrakoot?”

Without missing a beat, he recommended Shri Shridhar Dham, just 100 meters from my hotel—famous for its wholesome thali meals.

By 8 PM, I had reached the place, bought a meal token for ₹100, and joined the crowd. The hall was buzzing, easily hosting over a hundred people at a time. The food was simple, soulful, and satisfying. By 8:30, I was done, full in both body and heart.

Before leaving, I took a moment to thank the staff, and then strolled back to the hotel under the quiet, star-lit sky.

January 21st – Into the Heart of Chitrakoot

The next morning greeted me with bright sunshine and the aroma of a hearty breakfast. Energized and eager, I met my guide for the day—Ravi Goswami.

Ravi ji was a character in himself. With his mouth constantly full of paan and a booming voice, he had an energy that was hard to ignore. There was something both theatrical and genuine about him, as though Lord Ram’s stories were not something he merely told—but lived.

GUPT GODAVARI

GUPT GODAVARI.

“Babuji, pehle hum log Gupt Godavari chalenge,” Ravi declared with confidence.

As we drove, he rolled down his window, spit out a bold stream of paan juice, took a breath, and then thundered, “Jai Shri Ram!” with such force that I flinched. For a second, I truly believed I was marching with Ram’s army towards Lanka. Such was his conviction.

Gupt Godavari is located about 18 km from the main town, and houses two ancient caves. One of them is believed to be the origin point of the Godavari River. Inside, you'll find idols of Lord Shiva, Ram, Lakshman, and Sita. The passage into the first cave is extremely narrow—only one person can enter at a time.

Inside, it opens into a surprisingly large cavern. Visitors are allowed in small groups, as the space can easily become congested. The air was thin, and with so many people inside, I felt a hint of breathlessness. A natural concern, I suppose, given the confined space.

Once outside, Ravi gestured toward the second cave.

“This one,” he said, “is the wet cave.”

I hesitated. Water in the cave reaches up to the knees, and after the previous cave, I felt slightly uneasy. Instead, I offered my respects from the entrance and chose to move on.

SATI ANUSUYA ASHRAM

MANDAKINI RIVER AT SATI ANUSUIYA ASHRAM

Our next destination was Sati Anusuya Ashram, a place of deep spiritual charm. It's also considered the origin of the Mandakini River. On one side of the road flowed the pale green river, and on the other stood the serene ashram.

Within the ashram, stories from Lord Ram’s life are brought to life through intricate sculptures. After a quick darshan, I spent some quiet moments at the riverbank. The calm was soothing, a soft pause in the day’s spiritual rhythm.

On our way out, something unusual caught my eye—jalebis that were almost black in color. Intrigued, I asked Ravi about them.

“Babuji, yeh hamari famous gud wali jalebi hai,” he grinned.

Sold. I walked over, bought a ₹20 portion, and took a bite. Crispy, piping hot, and rich with the taste of jaggery—it was simple yet divine. A reminder that local food always carries the true flavor of a place.

SPATHIK SHILA

SPATIK SHILA

From there, we made our way to Spatik Shila, a large, shining stone resting on the riverbank. Legend has it that Lord Ram once rested here.

I sat upon the smooth rock and took in the surroundings. On one side, the Mandakini flowed gently; on the other, a dense jungle whispered secrets to the wind. The green waters sparkled like emeralds under the sun. Time felt like it slowed, inviting me to breathe and be.

VIEW FROM HANUMAN DHARA

HANUMAN DHARA

Next, we headed to Hanuman Dhara, believed to be the spot where Lord Hanuman, after burning down Lanka, came to cool himself. It is said that Lord Ram shot an arrow into the earth here, and a stream of water burst forth to soothe Hanuman’s scorched body.

One can either climb a long flight of stairs (a two-hour trek) or take a trolley. I opted for the trolley and was rewarded with a breathtaking view of Chitrakoot from above.

At the top stood a towering idol of Lord Hanuman, with a stream of water cascading from his arm. Nearby was Sita Rasoi, a site believed to be where Sita Mata cooked during the exile. After a quick darshan, I took the trolley back down.

KAMTA NATH TEMPLE

KAMTA NATH TEMPLE

Located within the Kamadgiri hills, the Kamta Nath Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Local lore tells of a mysterious stream of milk or water that flows once a year—its origin unknown. Ravi ji swore by this tale with such sincerity that I found myself believing it too.

The temple was beautiful, peaceful. After the darshan, I felt a strange stillness wash over me—a silence that wasn’t empty, but full. Full of something sacred.

Many devotees perform the parikrama of Kamadgiri hill, but I had to skip it due to time constraints. Still, I carried a quiet satisfaction in my heart.

BHARAT KOOP – Where Longing Echoes in Water

Our final stop was Bharat Koop, a place that touched me deeper than I ever expected. According to legend, this is where Bharat came to persuade Lord Ram to return to Ayodhya and take the throne. When Ram declined, Bharat collected sacred waters from across the land for his coronation, and those very waters were poured into this grand well.

As I stood beside the ancient koop, a strange stillness overcame me. The air itself seemed to hum with emotion. I found myself thinking of all the people who live in my heart—those I love, those I miss, those who’ve shaped my journey in quiet, unseen ways.

The water in the koop shimmered with a kind of knowing. It held the echoes of a brother’s longing, of unfulfilled wishes, of duty chosen over desire. And in that moment, I couldn’t help but think of my own life—of all the reunions I long for, and the goodbyes I never quite recovered from.

Tears welled up in my eyes. Not from sadness, but from a wave of gratitude and surrender. Nothing in life stays. Everyone we love will part, sooner or later. And yet, what a gift it is to have loved at all.

I closed my eyes, took a deep breath, and filled a small bottle with water from the koop. The earth beneath my feet blurred; the tears refused to stop. I walked back to the car slowly, each step a silent prayer.

We began the journey back home. But a part of me stayed behind, resting in the quiet waters of Bharat Koop.

This journey to Chitrakoot will remain etched in my heart forever.

WHO SHOULD GO:

Chitrakoot is essentially a religious place. Those who have keen interest in Mythology would love to be here. You can travel with friends and family alike.

WHEN SHOULD YOU GO:

Chitrakoot can be pretty hot in the summers. It always advisable to travel in winter months. I went in January 3^rd week. The climate was very nice. I guess November to February is a good time to travel.

WHAT TO PACK:

Clothes according to the weather, water for travel. Rest I think everything is easily available if needed.

HOW TO REACH:

Chitrakoot has the distinction of being in both Uttar Pradesh as well as Madhya Pradesh.

By Air – Khajuraho is the nearest airport but Lucknow would be more convenient.

By Road – Chitrakoot is connected to major cities by road.

By Rail – Karwi ( Chitrakoot Dham ) is the nearest railway station.

WHERE TO STAY:

Chitrakoot is dotted with hotels all over the place right from budget friendly to luxury. Choose according to your choice. I stayed in MPTDC hotel. It was an average hotel with good amenities.

My journey to Chitrakoot was an emotional journey that towards the end provided me with an emotional farewell. Life's lessons easily learnt I guess 😊

Add life to days,

Not days to life.

Ravi