TUNGNATH MAHADEV
- www.unknownbirder.com
- Jan 23
- 5 min read
There is only one life. Neither was there one before this, nor will there be one after this. If there was one before this, we don’t remember it and if there will be one after this, we don’t know it. Which means—whatever exists, is only this one life and if we live it well, I guess one life is enough.
With this principle in my heart, I set out—this time into the valleys of Uttarakhand, to visit one of the most beautiful temples in the Garhwal region, one of the Panch Kedars, standing tall at 3,600 meters—Tungnath Mahadev.
It must have been September when the thought first struck me: to trek through snowy terrain. Without a second thought, I booked the Tungnath trek along with train tickets. The plan was sealed—departure, return, and trek all confirmed.
THE MORE, THE MERRIER
On December 19, my friend Alok invited me for dinner. As we chatted after the meal, I casually mentioned, “Bhai, I’m leaving for a trek to Tungnath Mahadev next Wednesday.” My friend Gopal instantly agreed to join, though he was looking for more companions.
Two days later, Alok, Gopal, and Manish were at my home: “We’re coming too!” By the time tea arrived, I had booked their trek as well. Reservations were done the next day. Now all that remained was preparation—warm clothing for minus 6 degrees. Within two days, gear arrived from Decathlon Kanpur, and on the evening of the 25th at 5:30 pm, we set off.
THE TRAIN TO HARIDWAR
We travelled from Shahjahanpur to Haridwar by train. Families were worried—“Who goes to snowy mountains in such cold?”—so they packed us with food, laddoos, barfi, and snacks. The train was on time. As soon as we sat down, hunger struck, and the feast began. What seemed like too much food vanished quickly amidst laughter and chatter.
By 5 a.m., we reached Haridwar. Freshened up, we headed straight to Har-ki-Pauri. The morning Ganga aarti was mesmerizing, cold winds sweeping across the ghats. Only Gopal, the brave one, bathed in the holy river; the rest of us sprinkled a few drops and considered it holy enough.
After tea, we walked to the bus stand, where our tempo traveller bus awaited. The driver was cheerful and friendly. Here we met Johnny sir from Chandigarh—a basketball coach, passionate about trekking and cycling, who shares his adventures on his YouTube channel musafir1313.
ARRIVAL AT CHOPTA
Soon we were on our way. Picking up more companions at Rishikesh, we passed Devprayag, Rudraprayag, and Agastyamuni, reaching Chopta by 6 p.m. Chopta was our base camp.
We stayed at Green View Palace, a homestay. After tea and dinner, we retired to our rooms. The cold was so intense that even turning in bed felt risky. The temperature must have been minus 5.
Morning came. Thanks to Manish’s kindness, we had bed tea—the human engine was running now! Everyone geared up for the trek.
Our trek leader, Rana ji, was a lively soul, full of energy, constantly encouraging us. With chants of “Har Har Mahadev,” we set off in the tempo traveller to the trek’s starting point.
THE TREK BEGINS – MY FIRST SNOWFALL
The excitement was electric—as if even Everest could be conquered that day.
We wore spiked shoes, carried trekking sticks, and layered ourselves against the cold. The only thing missing was experience walking on snow. Ten days earlier, heavy snowfall had covered the trail. Over time, footsteps had compacted it into hard ice—known as black ice, dreaded by trekkers.
Barely 100 meters in, black ice showed its true colours. People slipped, fell, struggled to walk straight. Place your foot here, end up there. Slowly, carefully, we pressed our feet into the snow and moved forward.
Half an hour later, the weather shifted. Clouds gathered, and soon, soft flakes began to fall—like cotton drifting in the air. My first snowfall. Magical. Within minutes, the world turned white.
We stopped at a tea stall, sipping hot chai as the snowfall intensified into a storm. Visibility dropped, the cold bit harder—minus 6, perhaps. More people slipped and fell; many abandoned the trek midway. But we, determined souls, pressed on. Rana ji kept encouraging: “We must reach the temple. Chandrashila can wait, but Tungnath temple we must see.”
Honestly, I longed for my warm quilt and steaming cup of tea back home. But we gathered courage and continued. After four hours of climbing, we reached the temple gates. The shrine was closed for winter, but we offered prayers at the doorstep.
THE RETURN
By 6 p.m., we began descending. But snowfall had blanketed the roads—vehicles couldn’t move. Our homestay was 8–9 km away. The only reliable travel option was our own legs.
The thought of walking more brought a wave of despair, but what choice did we have? We set off again.
The path was tough, snow-covered, yet breathtakingly beautiful. Darkness fell, silence surrounded
us, clouds drifted across the sky, and moonlight filtered through them, casting a silver hue on the snow. A surreal sight—time seemed to pause. I felt one with nature, filled with gratitude. At that moment, if the divine had called upon me, I would have willingly left this body. Life felt complete.
By 9:30 p.m., after 18 kilometres of trekking, we finally reached the homestay—wet clothes, exhausted bodies, hungry stomachs. Gratitude had faded; only the bed mattered. We ate, thanked God for our safe return, and collapsed into sleep.
THE NEXT CHALLENGE
Morning brought a new problem—how to get home? Our tempo traveller was still stuck, roads blocked by snow. Somehow, we arranged a chain-fitted Bolero car, reached Ukhimath, and from there took a Maruti van.
At Ukhimath, we had the blessing of Kedarnath ji and Madhyamaheshwar Mahadev. In winter, Lord Kedarnath’s idol is brought to Ukhimath, allowing devotees to worship him there. Thus, we had the fortune of visiting three of the Panch Kedars.
From Ukhimath, our trek company arranged Bolero cars to Haridwar. From Haridwar to Shahjahanpur, and finally home. On the morning of the 29th, at 10 a.m., I was back at work—tired, exhausted but carrying countless memories.
WHO SHOULD GO
Only those physically fit should attempt this trek.
In summer, horses are available, making it easier.
Difficulty: moderate-to-tough in summer, tough in winter.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
For snowfall and trekking adventure: winter.
For temple darshan and pleasant weather: summer.
Chopta is often called the Mini Switzerland of India.
WHAT TO CARRY
Chopta lies within Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary—few shops around.
Carry essentials, especially medicines.
Weather-appropriate clothing and snacks.
WHAT TO SEE
Haridwar and Rishikesh.
Devprayag, Rudraprayag.
Dhari Devi temple and nearby water sports.
Ukhimath: Kedarnath Mahadev and Madhyamaheshwar Mahadev.
Chopta’s natural beauty and Tungnath Mahadev.
HOW TO REACH
Nearest railway and bus station: Haridwar.
Well connected to major cities.
Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun.
There is only one life. Neither was there one before this, nor will there be one after this. If there was one before this, we don’t remember it and if there will be one after this , we don’t know it. Which means—whatever exists, is only this one life and if we live it well, I guess one life is enough.
Let’s live a little bit more for ourselves 😊
Add life to days,
not days to life.
Ravi
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