Mitawali, Padavali, and Bateshwar: A Journey into Madhya Pradesh’s Golden Triangle

Introduction

In the rush of modern life, we often forget ourselves—our passions, our joys, and the simple act of living for our own happiness. When the longing of “if only…” begins to echo in your heart, it’s a sign to pause and rediscover life. For me, that call led to an unforgettable journey through Morena district in Madhya Pradesh, exploring the historic gems of Mitawali, Padavali, and Bateshwar.

Sanichara Temple Complex

Shanichara Temple

Perched on a hill, Shanichara Temple is believed to be the oldest Shani temple in India. On Saturdays, it draws immense crowds, but on my visit, it was serene. Offering oil to Shani Dev and bowing in reverence, I felt a deep calm. Within the same complex lies a Hanuman temple, where fascinating stories about the idol added to the spiritual aura.

Bateshwar Temple Complex

A short drive away, Bateshwar left me awestruck. This sprawling complex of nearly 200 temples, dating back to the 7th–11th

Bateshwar Temple Complex

centuries, showcases India’s glorious past. The restoration led by archaeologist K.K. Mohammed,

Bateshwar Temple Complex

with the unlikely help of dacoit Nirbhay Singh Gujjar, is a story of resilience and collaboration. Today, only one temple is active for worship, but the artistry across the complex speaks volumes of our heritage.

Padavali

Padavali is a small fort built by the Jat Rana’s of Dholpur. Its uniqueness lies in the temple stones used in construction. Inside, intricate carvings depict scenes from the Ramayana,

Padavali

Mahabharata, heaven, and hell. Known as Mini Khajuraho, Padavali’s artistry is mesmerizing, especially on the ceilings, where I spent hours admiring the craftsmanship.

Mitawali

The Ekattarso Mahadev Temple in Mitawali village is reached by climbing nearly 100 steps. At its center lies a Shiva shrine, surrounded by 64 chambers, earning it the name Chausath Yogini Temple. Built by King Devpal, who had a keen interest in mathematics and astronomy, the temple is also linked to tantra practices. Interestingly, India’s old Parliament House was inspired by

Mitawali

its circular design.

Kakanmath Temple

Kakanmath is an engineering marvel. Stones are stacked in defiance of gravity, yet the

Mitawali

temple has stood since around 1000 CE. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is believed by locals to have been built overnight by Shiva’s attendants. Though incomplete, its sheer presence is astonishing—a highlight of my journey.

Travel Tips

• Who should visit: Perfect for friends, families, or solo travelers seeking history and spirituality.

• Best time to visit: November to March, when the weather is pleasant. Summers

  can be harsh.

• Must-see attractions: Shanichara Temple, Mitawali, Padavali, Bateshwar complex, and Kakanmath Temple. Extend your trip to include Gwalior and Dandarua Hanuman Temple if time permits.

• What to carry: Seasonal clothing, snacks, and drinking water.

• Where to stay: Gwalior offers better accommodation options, with connectivity by road, rail, and air.

  

Reflection

Life is not about counting days but adding life to them. Needs and problems will never end, but what fades away in due course of time is our chance to truly live happily. My journey

through Morena reminded me that one life, a well-lived life is enough.

Kakanmath Temple

Add life to days,

Not days to life.

Ravi